In Memory of Warmer Summers

June 13 to Omak, WA

As sometimes happens we were getting groceries and taking a little break when a fellow pulled up in his car and wanted to chat with us about our journey.  The large bags on our bikes seem always to draw the curious.  The further we get from our starting point, the greater the interest (try telling someone in Oregon when they ask where you came from and you answer them with Florida and see their reaction).  We said we’d come from the coast near Anacortes and he welcomed us to “North Central” Washington.  He explained there are terms in use for “Coasties”, “Westies”, and other names for those hailing from Seattle and such.  I suspect some of the names t are not that complimentary.  At any rate he encouraged us to refer to our current location as North-Central Washington to avoid any confusion.  When we get a bit east we’ll have to ask as well.

Meet Mike and Dianne from Fredericksburg, Texas:

We first met these two in Anacortes and we’ve been pacing each other off and on since leaving. Tonight we are again meeting up in the same town.

Ryan got a large jump on everyone today as he went from Winthrop all the was to Tonasket, a distance of about 72 miles.  We’ll see how things pan out with various folks as ther etends to be a lot more leap-frogging and separations when geography allows.  The mountain passes we are crossing tend to reduce mileage and group everyone in certain towns.

Very much unlike the Pacific Northwest, we are in a dramatically different climate

The two pictures above show the result of last year’s forest fires.  This part of the state had fires burning 500,000 acres.  I could see from the damage that the fires were jumping right across the highways as both sides of the road as far as the eye could see were burned.

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June 12, at Winthrop, WA

We call it a “zero day” in the touring vernacular.  No miles today as we take a little time to heal our bodies and look this charming little town over.  We reap the reward of our achievement and sow a little goodwill among the good folks of Winthrop.  Besides, the showers at our campground are the best!

Taking a morning stroll around the town park we find they are hosting an exhibit of local artisans and their crafts.  We have the perfect excuse not to buy any large murals or statuary too.  That stuff just cannot fit on a bike.

Stopping in at a burrito and espresso shop (I question them closely about if this is a legal combination and they assure me it’s okay) we speak with the young man who owns the business.  He explains to us that in the late 1970’s Winthrop chose a western theme for their town.  All buildings have to comply with a review of design to ensure the theme is consistent with the town’s western theme.  They’ve made it work and he is firmly convinced this has been a lifeline.  We’d have to agree looking at the large number of tourists evident just about everywhere.  The area supports some of the best mountain bike trails, back-country hiking and climbing, river kayaking and a whole host of other activities including downhill, back country, and cross country skiing in the winter.

Leaving the burrito/espresso shop, we spot Ryan checking out a sign explaining the town history on the corner of Main Street.  He just arrived after conquering Washington Pass yesterday and staying at a campground up on the backside of the mountain as he had foul weather on his descent.  We make arrangements to gather later after he has time to shower up at his hostel and catch up on his blogging.

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June 10

Colonial Campground (near Diablo Resevoir)

Skagit River

This is a quiet campground, mostly tent camping, very few RV’s and no full hook-ups for them. A family of several members are fishing from a small pier when I suddenly hear a large splash and see through the trees a girl of about ten has fallen into the water.  This isn’t normal water.  It is glacial run-off and extremely cold.  I run over to see if they need any help and her father is calmly instructing her to swim under the pier to reach the shore.  All is well, but she’s having a fair bit of shock.  Crisis passed.

This evening as the sun is setting and I’m in my tent, I hear the very distinct and pronounced crash of something I know very well.  A semi truck failed to negotiate a curve in the highway below the campground and has crashed into the bridge.  A quick check of things and the driver survived but the bridge is blocked completely and they work all night to clear the road.  Ear plugs required, but another crisis passed, we move on in the morning headed for Washington Pass hoping for no more crises, as what is ahead is test enough.

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June 11

Winthrop, WA

Today is the test of our resolve and that of anyone who takes on the task of the Northern Tier.  Just three days into the ride we encounter two passes that must be traversed, Rainy Pass and the beast of them all, Washington Pass.  Washington Pass sits at 5,477 feet above the very near sea-level one begins the climb.  The climb is 30 miles long.  The grade is not overwhelming but rather steep and very continual.  It is a grind.

Sallie and I did the climb up Grand Mesa outside of Grand Junction, Colorado in 2010 on road bikes that weigh in the teens.  Some say that Grand Mesa is the second-toughest climb in Colorado.  The ride we have today is a greater challenge by any standard I know of and we are doing it with bikes that weigh somewhere near 80 pounds each.  It is a grind.  It shapes the rest of the journey because if you make this, nothing will be as difficult, as arduous, or as long as this torture.  The reward is immense in gorgeous vistas but earned at every pedal stroke.

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June 9 to Rockport, WA

We set off today from the western launching point of the Northern Tier in Anacortes.  More typical of the climate in the Pacific Northwest, we contend with some rain, but that is expected as we move into the Cascade Mountains.  Arriving at our next camping spot in Rockport and getting something to eat at a tavern close by, I have a completely unexpected “small world” moment.  Meet Ryan Conaughty:

The ride being fairly flat, putting in 64 miles was not that taxing (translated to mean our brains still functioned somewhat well, but food is needed as always).  At the tavern there is a fellow leaving, easily spotted as a cyclist by his choice of loose-fitting gym shorts and the playful nature as he says goodbye to the patrons.  They are treating him like a celebrity, so it’s easy to assume he’s let them in on his plans to ride the Northern Tier.  As he heads for the door, he mentions he’s from Rochester, New York and my brain engages suddenly thinking, “Can this be who I think it is?”.

Turning the knob, someone shouts out, “Take care Ryan, it’s a pleasure meeting you.”

I freeze the departing cyclist with a loud and enthusiastic, “WAIT!”  Are you Ryan…and then as always, I stumble on his last name.

“Conaughty” he says and I almost fall over.  Thrusting out my hand, I introduce myself and it’s a mutual shock to us both to run into each other like this.  Ryan is on his Day One of the Northern Tier as well.  We spend the evening going over “touring” and life events and how the two are so closely interrelated.

Ryan authored a journal on Crazyguyonabike.com eight years ago titled “Trans Am Blues” and it was one of the most fascinating reads I’ve ever encountered from a young writer.  Speaking with Ryan fairly quickly I catch on that the Trans America tour he accomplished then had a profound effect on him and we somewhat awkwardly compared notes as my tour five years ago from Florida to Oregon had been a life-changing event for me as well.

Ryan’s current work is also on Crazyguy under the title “Northern Blues”.  Trans Am Blues and Northern Blues can be found using the search function under his name on Crazyguyonabike.com. I couldn’t recommend a stronger read, but offer one caution:  buckle your chin strap because he will transport you in a way you may not be prepared for.

Keep riding Ryan.  What you seek can be found out here.

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