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June 7th

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Meet Ingrid with her parents Michael and Kim.  These three are launching from Anacortes on a shakedown tour of Salt Spring Island, Canada.  This is in preparation for them to do the Northern Tier starting in July.  Michael has secured a job back home in New Hampshire and will be leaving Seattle after eight years.
Ingrid is an enthusiastic one year old.  Anyone can do this!

Having returned to Anacortes, we are tied up a day or two with some bike parts shipping overnight from my fabulous bike shop at home in Fernandina Beach.  Andrew (Drew) Carver is taking good care of our needs from his new shop, Supercorsa Cycles on Amelia Island.

I am having some difficulty with my app for WordPress and this Android tablet loading things offline.  I intend to post smaller samples to see if things go smoother.  Please be patient as these bugs work out (or ship me a iPad please, I just don’t relate to Android I guess).

Back in the Day, Planes Were Waterproof

Arriving in Seattle finds us about eight to nine hours later than scheduled due to the graces of American Airlines cancelling flights.  Apparently there was some rain in Dallas, heavy rain as it turns out, but having lived there ten years I know the habits of DFW Airport and our chosen airlines.  The bottom line is we get to sleep in Seattle about the same time we wake up in Florida and we have a shuttle to catch to get us to Anacortes in just a very few hours.  This places us in a state of fatigue that will tax us fairly significantly for several days.

Back in the day, planes flew in the rain and for our part, I confess we were significantly less impaired by schedule interruptions, jet lag and time shifts of three time zones.

Finding our equipment successfully shipped to Skagit Bicycle Shop, we avail ourselves of a couple of parking places out back and I somehow in my fatigue succesfully put two bicycles together without exchanging parts.

 

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Sunset on San Juan Island

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A real treat. Orcas making an appearance off of San Juan Island for us. They had not yet been spotted this summer, and we saw two pods coming through.

 

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Meet Olivia from New York and Emma from Berkley. They are on their way to the U.S. Mexico border from Vancouver.

 

 

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Looking west toward Victoria and Vancouver Island

 

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The Olympic Mountains on the horizon barely visible through the mist

 

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Mt. Baker and the Twin Sisters covered in snow on the horizon

Obviously the weather was fabulous and visibility about as perfect as one sees from Mt. Constitution

For our cycling friends: Not uncharacteristically, we encountered some poorly chosen advice from folks. Unfortunately, many of the sources of poor advice were cyclists. Pretty much everyone said Lopez Island was “flat”, San Juan was “hilly” and Orcas Island was some sort of killer of cyclists and their bodies pile up in the forests as they topple from their bikes from exhaustion trying to scale the grades and climbs. Nonesense. All of these islands have significant climbs and were taxing to two folks from Florida, but come on. Lopez was not flat and Orcas was not any worse than any other.

Most importantly, we were told over and over by everyone that the last two miles of the climb up Mt. Constitution was some sort of death match with gravity. I suspect this is an uban legend that gets passed on from cyclist to cyclist, scares people off the attempt, and folks take their rented car up there instead. The truth is the last two miles of Mt. Constitution were the easiest part of the entire climb.

Finally, for those who want to explore the islands, I recommend using Lopez Island as your base camp. The campground on Lopez has the fastest, shortest ride to the inter-island ferry and will serve you well to take day-trips to any other island from there.

P.S. A tip of the hat to the Washington State Ferry System. Cyclist pay a fee to leave Anacortes, but from there on the inter-island ferry system is free to all hikers and bikers. The ferries run on time and they are a jewel to treasure.

I’ll be back next week with more. In the meantime we are back in Anacortes awaiting a Fed Ex shipment of some needed bike parts to help with a problem I developed. It’s not a big deal, and we’ll start our trip east very soon from this, the starting point of the Northern Tier.

Websites like this are visually active and realizing it’s been five years since any photos of the adventurers, it’s time to update things and introduce another vital part of the team. This is Sallie. She’s responsible for the idea of the Northern Tier and she (sort of) patiently waited for me to clear my calendar, finally retire, and wait for the opportunity to do a another long journey.

We are most often asked about how long this will take. Without the pressures of deadlines, return dates, or other concerns of time, we are most often heard saying “three or four months. Sallie’s current version is, “We guarantee we will be done by winter in the Northeast.” Looking at the weather in these photos, you may understand the need.

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Sallie relaxing on a neighbor’s boat. The picture of tranquility as she contemplates what’s ahead.

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This is the two of us. I traded in my office pallor and have been out in the sun pretty regularly in the last two months. Florida very much agrees with me. Cyclists have strange tan lines and you can see a trace of a line on my right ankle, however the dead-fish white is gone from my “office feet” and creeping in is a bit of color Sallie refers to as “Florida Feet”.

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This is Sallie’s husband Bob. He’s going to hold down Command Central for us. His duties include taking care of dogs, two houses, mail, bills, etc. while fielding daily calls from Sallie, and of course golfing, fishing, and other distractions. I think it’s a little unfair for him. We have the journey, he has the necessary details. It’s clear we could not do what we do without Bob’s dedication to the task.

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Here’s some folks from the neighborhood. We could not turn down the offer of a sunset launch on this fine boat. Also supporting us in so many ways are a large cast of friends, family, former colleagues, cyclists, and other assorted folks. We’ll try our best to keep you entertained.

We leave in six days.  Two boxes of gear have been shipped, along with Sallie’s bike.  We’ve once again placed our faith in Fed Ex. 

As things go right now, my life may settle down once we get on the road and the touring routine sets in. I retired in April and promply moved to Florida executing a plan I settled on five years ago during our last tour.

The transition has been eventful.  I have a house I am trying to settle into here, organizing a new residence, meeting new friends, and trying to get used to the various ways in which my life is now affected by not having Monday-thru-Friday calendar.  Please don’t think I’m compaining though.  This has been pure joy.  Daily walks on the beach have helped center me and I’ve always enjoyed learning curves. In the meantime, Sallie and I have kept up with our training, gone on several multi-day rides, and we tackle the first of several hundred miles of mountains soon. 

Please follow along.

July 27

The alarm is going off, and yet I’m still fast asleep, rising from the depths of a dream to cancel the sound. It’s not like it was on tour where I would wake just prior to the clock going off. Now there is no need to hurry. I lie awake now blinking at the Florida sunlight filtering in through the window. Slowly my thoughts turn toward a final summary of the journey…

America, I have seen and touched your face. You are an enchanting country where beauty and resources abound. Through this bicycle quest I have come to know the land, the people, and most of all myself in a way I never could had I not taken the first important steps that ultimately led to our pushing off for the journey of a lifetime.

The land…

I was privileged to see this country from a unique perspective. I studied the land in an intimate way. Not through the bug splattered windows of a passing car, visiting roadside stops designed for gasoline and giant soda fountains with their yawning tubs awaiting a fill of ice and beverage. Not from 30,000 feet gazing down at irrigation circles dotting the landscape as so many scattered poker chips, or stopping at airports and conference centers with all the hasty meetings and empty handshakes.

I came to know the land, not from a cushioned hydraulic shock reinforced suspension, but from feeling my way across the face of this country, learning its punishing hills and thrilling valleys, living in the humid heat and numbing cold of its weather. I know of the wind and its fickle ways to frustrate and reward. I have been stung by the hard rains, refreshed by the soft, and worried by the destructive weather of the year. I refreshed myself in the lakes and was schooled on the rivers. The flooding of the lands was mine to behold, not only seeing the deluge, but smelling the resultant rot from the mix of mud and debris, the ruined crops. I witnessed the awesome power of tornadoes as described by the destruction of the innocent structures, towns, farmlands, and the broken hopes of man.

I’ve been warmed daily by the sun, cooled in the evening by its passing, and startled at night by the jeweled skies above. My tent has been both home and shelter, containing all that I need. I have chosen our sleeping places carefully and was educated by the unyielding ground upon which I lay.

The people…

Without hesitation I was invited to fish fries where people celebrated the bounty of their catch and openly discussed their secret places to go on their rivers. I spoke with proud farmers calmly explaining their sophisticated equipment and their spacious lands. I touched the lives of those wounded by life’s tragedies and losses when we met in the various corners of the country, and they told me of their aching hearts.

I caught the eyes of strangers with our bicycles and gear, striking up lively conversations and watched their jaws drop when I told them of our plans. As brother and sister undertaking such a journey, we saw the wistful eyes of those who knew their own family members were not close enough for such a venture. I came to know the tender hearts of those affected by our quest. I sent notes to everyone who donated to our ambitious goal thanking them for their generosity and admiring their loyalty to, and interest in our quest.

The responses we received from the people supporting us on this ride were surprisingly vibrant, generous, and loyal. The web site was constantly referred to by readers as something they looked forward to everyday. E-mails were pouring in. Donations were mounting. In many ways, all of us were on this ride and then some. The journal took on a life of its own, and the followers were legion.

Me…

Over the course of this journey, at times I pushed myself beyond limits I did not know I had. Limits measured more than in the miles of the road. I pushed beyond boundaries of health sustaining rest, hydration, food, and shelter. My emotions rose to a thin and fragile surface. I exceeded limits in patience in both myself and others that I will forever regret.

I used the time riding to explore the history of my life, sorting out priorities, and reviewing my achievements, my valued relationships, my restless wanderings, and I examined my many failures.

My life is a set of journeys, laced together by common threads and themes written in a script that I now know is not my own. To think otherwise is the foolishness of youth. There is a chapter that continues writ bold in the death of my daughter Carlie. The long road I have been on since that time has been at once, one of trial, pain, suffering, learning, and redemption. I have survived thus far. In this crucible, I have learned much.

This journey across the country is not unlike revisiting the days of my grief at its fullest. To exhaust myself in an effort, gain little rest, and then continue the next day when the will is weak, and the spirit dimmed, and be rewarded by the effort in some unforeseen way…this has been mirrored in my journey. 

I first envisioned this epic ride across our country associated with my retirement from law enforcement. I did not know what my next steps would be, and I wanted to use the time to contemplate the rest of my life. As life often does, opportunities presented themselves in an alternative I did not expect, and I found myself in a second career working for MADD.

Despite the change in circumstance, the dream of a cross-country ride never died. Ultimately, I was graced with a leave to perform this journey and it is done, the trip is complete…it is more than that; it is achieved. It was both my privilege and honor to see it through. It will remain so always as a sacred moment in my heart.  As I move forward now, I do so always knowing there is value in seeing the distance we have come.

Thank you for following