Lolo Hot Springs, Montana to Lowell, Idaho
Rude horn honks: 1
Miles: 87
Total so far: 3,894
Descending with the Lochsa River to our left for the entire day's ride.
I look at the alarm clock and it’s 4:30am. Despite my desire to sleep, the process of waking will take hold now, and there is little I can do to prevent it. I will fall asleep again, but it will be the in and out of slumber marked by dreams until the alarm goes off at 6:00. We are within a stone’s throw of Lolo Creek. Camping this close to the banks of a creek when the morning will be chilled is a recipe for damp wet mornings, but the campground needed us here because they were cleaning up after some sort of a rock concert two nights before.
I hear water drops hit my tent floor. This tent will do that on cold wet mornings. It doesn’t leak, it is the condensation from inside that runs down the rain fly until it catches up on a wave in the fabric. The water collects and then drops. It’s not much, my gear will remain dry. The tent will be soaked from the dew and we’ll pack up wet tents again. In the cold.
I snuggle back down in my sleeping bag and go for the bonus sleep – that little I can squeeze out before it”s time to get going again. Think of the warmth of the bag; breathe; don’t think of anything else…sleep will come.
“Good morning Sal.” I give my usual greeting upon reaching the alarm clock and silencing it’s morning roust. My comment is returned with a mumble from her tent about the cold, but we are up. The routine is well established, first dress in the cycling clothing of the day, supplemented by knee warmers, gloves, and layers covered over with the heavy rain jacket — whatever we have for warmth. No socks and shoes — we’ll be walking around on wet grass. Flip-flops, the non insulated non-water proof variety. Cold toes are in our future. Pack the sleeping bag, the Therma Rest mattress, the clothing bag, get all the gear ready and pitched out of the tent. Grab the food pannier (right front) and exit the tent, leaving the last warmth of the morning. Our day begins.
Ascending Lolo Pass
After we fix breakfast and secure our equipment to the bikes we ascend what is left of Lolo Pass. This will end our time in Montana, as the pass marks the Idaho border. One more state behind us, only two more to complete. Descending, we enter a new environment entirely, marked by two deer I surprise just at the top of the pass. I would expect mule deer, but these are clearly white tail. The trees suddenly change. There are pines here I do not recognize, and red cedars appear. Giant red cedars. maybe they are all that big. I have no way to know. There are ferns in the understory. Ferns? The mountains of the river valley are steep. Consistently steep. You-will-need-rope to get up these, leave the horses behind steep.
Only one more border crossing remains
A peek over the top
I take a picture of the terrain as we begin descending Lolo Pass, but I miss taking a picture of the highway sign that says, ” Road Curves the Next 99 Miles”. Really? Really.
Red cedars. Big ones.
Soon we are alongside the Lochsa River and I come to understand why we are on a winding road for 99 miles. We will trace this river the rest of the day. The white water is spectacular, but it’s obvious the run-off has the water levels too high to work safely. There are no rafts on the water.
We begin a section of the ride that has no services (water, food, gas stations, etc.) for 65 miles. We had planned to camp at a forest service primitive campsite on the Lochsa River, but the riding is so spectacular, we do not want to quit, so we push on to Lowell. Down the river we go…
Some of the white water on the Lachsa River
More river than the rafts want...
Safe landings in Lowell, Idaho...and a picture with Peter Townsend to prove it (not really he says he's Tom Petty)
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Tomorrow’s ride is dedicated to David Scott Berry
David Scott Berry
David Scott Berry was on his way back to college when he was hit head-on by a drunk driver. David was 25 and he was from Mena, Arkansas. The crash took place on May 25, 2008.
In Memory of Warmer Summers 